The Museum Of Camille Claudel

I have only included the works by Camille Claudel in this brief photo essay, but the museum houses some of the best sculptures of both the naturalist and symbolist movement, with Rodin and Alfred Boucher enormously represented. It would be apt to show both these tremendous artists too, and perhaps a second blog post will incorporate their work as Boucher was Camilles first mentor, and Rodin her fateful second, but eventually she superceded them both and moved stridently into the symbolist future in her own right, and I believe she deserves her work to be seen in its own light, free from the impediments of her brilliant and prodigious forebears.

Reference to her work is sparing, as it is often best to allow the images and work to speak for themselves, however, a brief description is placed beneath some works to give them context in the collection entire.

La Vieille Helene, terracotta, 1885

La Fortune, Bronze, 1902

Le Siren, Bronze, 1905

L'Aurora, Bronze, with and without patina, 1908

'The Waltz'

Rodin 

Woman with eyes closed

La Fortune, Bronze, flanked by Rodin's 

Leon Lhermitte, Bronze, 1889

L'implorante ou imploration, Bronze, 1899

The Destiny, Bronze , 1902

Perseus and the medusa, marble, 1897

Lest we forget...

French military cemetery, Fere-champonoire, Champagne-Ardenne 

I have, on my various travels got into the habit of visiting the various commonwealth war cemeteries dotted around Europe. They are almost always immaculately kept and all too often completely devoid of anyone, so, I make it part of my pilgrimage to visit the graves of these young men and boys, often scattered in far flung little villages, where it is unlikely that anyone might pass by... until I do.

During this time many remarkable sequences of events have taken place, not least of which was when I left the area of Thuin after a glorious stay at galerie ephemere, of which I have written beforehand in a blog post of the same name. I was bedding down late one evening after a long walk that day in a beech forest. It was twilight and the peculiar nature of the crepuscular light meant that I was forced to make a hasty camp that evening. After setting my bed, I wandered through the forest some 30-40 metres away to discover a deep ravine that stretched along a gorge between the bank I was on, and another, some 50 metres wide. No sooner had I arrived at the lip of the ravine, with the sound of rushing water below, than a magnificent eagle flew majestically down the length of the ravine. It took my breath away, not least because of how rare it is to see such a large bird of prey,  but also the beauty of the flight as it shone in the late sunlight, flanked by the dark banks of trees on either side of the ravine.

The next day, I wandered into the town of Montbliart, in the Belgian ardennes, it is a town made famous by the Cobra school of art, and the publication set up by Pol Bury and Andre Balthazar, entitled 'Le Daily Bul'. Before you enter the town proper however, there is a small local cemetery, upon which hung a sign 'commonwealth war graves', which you will find where ever there are servicemen buried across Europe. In this particular cemetery lay two young RAF pilots. Both losing there lives in the first world war, but it was the inscription on one of the graves that shone like a beacon for me, and was a kind of confirmation of sorts. For I had been wondering whether given my injuries I may have bitten off more than I could chew, but there, written in bold on the headstone of 2nd Lt G.E.Dowler's last place of rest was the stunning quote from Isaiah 40:31 "They shall mount up with wings of eagles they shall walk and not faint.". I was immediately moved... another moment of beautiful synchronicity, on a journey shrouded in such occurrences.

I mention this little story in passing, but in truth, one never knows the significance of events until they arrive. It was certainly a remarkable coincidence, and answered succinctly a question that had been on my mind. Had I not been in the habit of visiting these young men, I very well may have missed this connection, but I was in the habit, not so that I could find anything in particular, aside from honouring those young men who gave their lives for the freedoms we enjoy today. I simply leave it with you, make of it what you will, I only know what it meant to me, at that particular moment, but then, that is what is meant by recognizing your coincidences...

External view of French and Commonwealth war Cemetery, Fere-champonoire, Champagne-Ardenne 

It is interesting to note that along with the 6000 war graves dotted within this mass killing ground are not just a number of commonwealth war graves, but the graves of hundreds of Muslim boys who were part of a Moroccan regiment based at fere-champonoire, during the early onslaught of WW2. They fought a desperate rearguard and ultimately hopeless battle against the nazi advance, and mixed their blood with that of their fellow French nationals in the fight for freedom in that apocalyptic war. They lay there, side by side, having died for the liberation of France. Lest we forget...

Monument to the fallen, Fere-champonoire, Champagne-Ardenne 

Fere-champonoire 

Memorial, Connantre , Champagne-Ardenne 

Connantre, Champagne-Ardenne 

Fighting Cock and Ball, Connantre, Champagne-Ardenne 

The Abbey Of Hautvillers

Statue St Jean Le Baptist 

The story is told that all the inhabitants of Hautvillers are cousin's. This remarkable tale came about during an earlier age when, it is said, the monks of the abbey would visit the houses of the wives of the men folk of the village, leaving their clogs at the door. If a worker dared to enter his home whilst the monks clogs were at the door he was arrested by the local abbot and his henchmen and thrown into the dungeon, hence none ever dared to cross the monks. A kind of ongoing prima-noctis of sorts... remarkable what a little feudalism mixed with power lusting Champagne quaffing chastity will make a man of the cloth do. Still these are all just tales and dreams, aren't they?

What is not, however, is the remarkable little benedictine retreat of the abbey of Hautvillers. I approached Hautvillers from the mountainside, and the view is sensational, and to be enjoyed no matter how you arrive.

View of Hautvillers from the mount 

Wandering through the town is a delight, but the affluence is apparent, and it must have seemed as though I had just landed, with my large front and back pack on amongst the maserati's and ferrari's...

Cafe in centre of town

Town hall

If however you follow the excellent signage, before long you will find yourself at the benedictine abbey of Hautvillers. It is a curious and interesting association that benedictine and scholistica are often associated together, the monks and the nuns of the respective orders often closely connected, as they are in Casino; perhaps this is the origin of the tale, as I saw no evidence of the order of scholastica when I was in the abbey. Never the less... follow the signs and before you know it you will be inside the abbey of Hautvillers.

Brief history, perhaps less colourful...

There are some incredible relics here, with St Helene, the mother of Emporor Constantine amongst them.

St Helene relic and shrine 

The alter at the front is where you will find Dom Perrignon, intered beneath a marble sarcophagi.

But my absolute favourite, apart from the wonderful people you will meet in such places... I was lucky to meet two lovely women and a man from Leon who were there for the day as we lit candles for friends and family; was the stunning carrarean marble sculpture of St Jean le baptist, housed in a side sanctuary dedicated by the patron Victor auben Moet for the miracle of saving his nephew Jean Chandon, who fell ill at the age of 9. How different the world of Champagne would be had he not recovered. ;)

Sculpture housed in side sanctuary 

The sculpture is by Odoardo Tabacchi, and is made of Carraran marble, the same stone Michaelangelo used for much of his work, and was created in 1878. If for no other reason, come to the abbey to see this masterpiece, but of course the place is steeped in the history of the Champagne region, and is therefore unmissable.

I hope this has been a brief taste of Champagne to your liking, a colourful and effervescent journey. As ever I thank you for your time and interest and invite you once again to visit the link to charity:water to the left of the page, it is after all what the journey is all about. :)

Moet Chandon, Hautvillers, Champagne-Ardenne how different it all cold have been...

A few more images...

Once again I find that a picture paints a thousand words, and whilst those that know me might say I run the images close on occasion, still it remains that due to the brevity of WiFi access posting some photos is still the most efficient way for me to tell the story, until I get the chance to publish the book, and then you can be sure my loquacious nature will be to the fore once more ;) ...

I have for the last few days been flat on my back in the French countryside, having aggravated an old injury. The tent bought in Reims came to the rescue, as I could do nothing but lay there as three magnificent thunderstorms raged overhead. The thunderous light show was stupendous, and the deluge equally biblical, but through it all I remained dry and supine in my cocoon of modern silk... a marvel of technology, and in the end a poem flooded forthopaedic,  gushing upon the page as my ailment and thunder abated.

Please consider visiting the links to the right of the page, as well as the link to the left to charity water, as they are places and people's I have had the pleasure to stay and visit along the way... as well as a little link to my other poetry blog. Thank you all for your continued support, and the tremendous gifts you have bestowed, both to myself and Charity Water. <3

Le Mesnil sur Oger, Champagne-Ardenne

Poppy leaving Epernay 

Where the Champagne is really grown, Vertus, 

Some product and the chap who supplied it... blanc les blanc, Oger, Champagne-Ardenne 

Where I was laid up, thunder in the distance... Fere-champonoire 

A Lute Of Jade

Vertus , Champagne-Ardenne 

- A Lute Of Jade -

Sat with a Lute of Jade,
The gurgling stream ambles beside me
A slow destination from chambers beneath the earth,
my feet dipped in the icy kiss of aeons freed.
I wonder who will see the sea first?
Effervescent bubbles fed into silent streams,
Dreams of bamboo groves ages ago, melifluously slip between the young spring and the birds noonday trill.
Cottonwood seed fills the air, a warm snow, gently falls to the ground, and all around, Dionysion fruits abound.
A mellow rest for weary traveller's, to dip their toes into the wellspring of eternity.

- RMP 2018

Reims and Champagne-Ardenne

So much to write and so little time, as I sporadically find WiFi spots in this area of France. Much more to share in later posts when I find a dedicated connection for an evening. For now, more images of the journey... and a special thanks to all those I have met along the way, and those who have supported me and Charity:Water.

Marc Chagal's stainglass windows 

Joan of arc, Reims Cathedral 

Forest lake between Reims and Epernay

Hautvillers town hall, Hautvillers

Hautvillers and Epernay from the mountain, Champagne-Ardenne

Reims Cathedral 

Photo montages

Koru, France

It became obvious after six days without WiFi, in the depths of the Belgian and French ardennes, that regular updates to the blog would be next to impossible, and so with this in mind, perhaps it is best to simply share some of the images I have collected along the way and share the odd story as and when I can.

I have many wonderful stories of people and places  I have visited along the way, and have detailed notes of each special moment that I will publish in book form at the end of the journey. So please bear with me if I do not mention everyone or everything I have shared with or seen, but rest assured no one is forgotten,  everything is saved, and the book is being written every step of the way.

Please consider visiting the Website for CharityWater a fantastic charity whose donation link you will find on the left hand side of this Web page. It is after all the reason I am walking 2000km , with 25kgs on my back, to highlight the conditions many women and children face every single day as they search for their daily water supply in the developing world. So please give them a glance, and for those who have already done so and contributed, thank you! <3

Walloonian countryside outside Thuin.

Some places I have slept:

Forest of Bois de Blimont 

Bivouac des fres

First night in France, outside Leuze 

'Tree of Liberty', Parfondeval 

Winds of change, French countryside

Brunehamel township,